Breathtaking Iceland by Clare
Part 3: The Secret Lagoon and eating out in Reykjavik
So, you may remember in Part 1 where I mentioned the Icelandic rule that you have to shower naked before entering any lagoon or outdoor pool? Before we left for Iceland, colleagues Adele and Charlotte took great delight in telling us about the ‘Shower Police’ who would sit and watch us to make sure we had thoroughly washed all our bits. Ha, ha very funny. Well, it turns out that this is actually true.
Luckily, no-one was checking when we visited the Secret Lagoon but there were posters up showing why it was so important to wash thoroughly. It really wasn’t a big deal to shower without our swimming costumes just like the other visitors – especially if it meant that the water could be kept clean for everyone to enjoy. There are large communal changing areas (separate for men and women) as well as individual cubicles if you need a bit more privacy.
The Secret Lagoon is completely different to the Blue Lagoon in almost every way. Think local swimming baths rather than international spa. But I loved it there – there was such a relaxed, friendly atmosphere and the water was gorgeous (38-40°C all year round). It’s a favourite spot to wind down on a Friday evening after school or work. You can buy a beer or glass of wine and just sink into the warm water. The hot water comes directly from bubbling springs and a small geyser that you can watch as you relax. You’ll be surrounded by steam that rises from the grassy slopes around you as the hot water trickles into the pool.
The Secret Lagoon (or Gamla Laugin) is Iceland’s oldest swimming pool and it has been kept natural and authentic.
Unlike the smooth silica underfoot at the Blue Lagoon, the Secret Lagoon is lined with loose black pebbles. There is moss growing on the stone walls around the pool and the water feels very soft and soothing on your body. Plus, there’s no need to worry about getting your hair wet here (although it is recommended that you remove any silver jewellery). It’s a much better place to take children as you can actually swim in the water (and take floats etc) as well as just lounge around the edges.
The Secret Lagoon isn’t as accessible as the Blue Lagoon but wheelchair users can be carried from the patio area into the soothing waters. The water was hotter than at the Blue Lagoon and you are advised to stay hydrated as it can make you feel a bit dizzy (just like if you stay in a hot tub for too long). You can buy sandwiches, cakes and snacks in the café as well as water and soft drinks. Because the Lagoon is a popular spot with Icelanders as well as tourists, you need to reserve your spot in advance or take part in an organised coach tour which includes your entrance ticket. There are a limited number of tickets available so it won’t get too overcrowded.
After a couple of hours relaxing (and wondering how to persuade my local leisure centre to heat up their water to 38° and allow drinks in the pool on a Friday evening) we were picked up by coach and taken back to Reykjavik. When you plan your own tour of Iceland, I really recommend finding time to visit both the Blue Lagoon and the Secret lagoon if you can – just ask us for the best way to do this.
Now, there’s no getting away from the fact that it is very expensive to eat out in Iceland, but the food is amazing; fresh fish and seafood and gorgeous desserts with fresh berries. To drink there are locally brewed craft beers and schnapps and of course wine (which is imported so carries a high price tag).
On our first night we were tired (and Hannah’s hair looked a bit ropey after being dunked in the Blue Lagoon, sorry Hannah 😊) so we cheated and had noodles from Noodle Station – just round the corner from our city centre hotel. They were hot, sweet, sour and delicious and a relatively inexpensive way to fill up quickly (around £10). But, if you’re looking for a more gourmet experience there’s a huge choice. Why not try Perlan, a unique rotating restaurant under a glass dome which gives you a panoramic view of the city at night?
We had switched hotels and, for the next two nights, we were staying by Reykjavik harbour. It is a gorgeous setting and the location for lots of amazing restaurants, shops and galleries so we wanted to stay close by and try some of these out. We started with Kopar, housed in a traditional wooden building right by the water’s edge. As it was a busy Friday night (and we hadn’t booked) we had to wait for a table so we headed upstairs to their bar. If you’ve ever wanted to sit on a swing drinking Icelandic gin then this is the place for you! (Although mind your head, as the ceiling in the corner is pretty low). There’s also a terrace by the harbour where you can enjoy cocktails or a coffee after your meal; Kopar also has a huge selection of cognacs and whiskies so if you are a connoisseur you are sure to find something to tempt you.
The food was A-M-A-Z-I-N-G. Hannah chose lamb and I had arctic char. We were also treated to some taster dishes along with freshly baked breads and butter packed with salt crystals and seaweed. You can choose from the a la carte menu or the Adventure Menu which is a 9-course gourmet treat. This must be ordered for the whole table and costs around £115 per head with wine. Vegan dishes are also available (ask in advance to make sure) so you don’t need to miss out if you don’t eat meat or fish. Everything was freshly cooked and beautifully presented but there was also a lovely relaxed atmosphere with none of the stuffiness you sometimes find in top restaurants.
The marina is the perfect place to be in the evening with the lights from the restaurants and bars reflecting on the water. It was a prime night for seeing the Aurora Borealis and we wished we had organised a Northern Lights cruise or a minibus trip away from the city lights but we knew we had an early start the next day so headed back to the hotel (hoping not to wake up with a sore head – from the bar ceiling obviously 😊).
In Part 4 of the blog we’re going off road! There are more waterfalls, a glacier and another fantastic meal out.
To book your trip to Iceland and to see some of these incredible sights just give us a call on 01793 939035 or email sales@arcticdirect.co.uk
